Reviewed by Noo Saro-Wiwa
Set the scene
Sprawled on Kefalonia’s quieter south-west coast, in a spectacular location between Mount Ainos and Lourdas beach on the Ionian Sea, this adults-only retreat leverages its natural surroundings and lush vegetation so that guests can, in its words, “reconnect, recharge and rejuvenate”. There’s something for everyone here: sporty types come for exercise and fitness, while folks who want to enjoy meditation and yoga take chilled-out walks amid olive and cypress trees and eat healthy, locally sourced food.
What’s the backstory?
Owner Christof Koumoudos and his family believe in connecting with nature and promoting a healthy, wellness-oriented lifestyle, hence the name F Zeen, which means “the good life” in ancient Greek. They are currently building a new outpost in Athens, and plans are afoot for sites on the islands of Milos and Meganisi.
What’s the wellness concept?
This is a holistic wellness retreat promising pampering, fitness, relaxation, meditation and yoga, with everything from exercise classes to mountain excursions. State-of-the-art gym equipment is set out on shaded, open-air exercise decks, all facing the sea and surrounded by flowers and plants, so your sweat is wafted away on a bougainvillaea breeze. Meditation and sound therapy are held on the Armonia deck, a thatch-roofed pagoda up the slopes in the forest. Skilled fitness and yoga instructors offer stretching as well as vinyasa, hatha, beginner’s yoga, yin yoga and aerial yoga on the Zenia deck. Meanwhile, on the Raw Deck, there are pilates reformer sessions to improve strength and flexibility.
Not all guests are here for the exercise: some prefer to simply chill out on a sun lounger by one of the three sea-facing freshwater pools or in the large, shaded lounge down by the beach.
What are the signature treatments?
The Idor Spa offers treatments and massages using organic, locally sourced cosmetic products by Voya and Bioaroma. Therapies include detox and sound healing; hammam treatments use seaweed on account of its nourishing and healing properties.
One popular treatment combines sound healing therapy, massage, and Tibetan singing bowls. Following a rubdown using essential oils, the bowls are placed on or near the body and struck, their vibrations emitting frequencies and vibrations that leave you feeling relaxed and centred. Meanwhile, during the pure botanic detox you sit in the hot, steamy hammam before being smothered in a black pepper and rosemary scrub to reduce water retention, improve circulation, firm and hydrate. A cleansing and detoxifying mask is then applied, followed by a lymphatic scalp and body massage, and then a cooling gel to firm the skin.
What makes F Zeen different?
The combination of mountain, sea and sporting activities, along with relaxing spa and meditation therapies, is what makes this place special.
What else do they offer?
The dining concept is a balanced, healthy Mediterranean diet. The two restaurants, Selini (by the biggest pool) and Gaia, source much of their seasonal ingredients from the local sea and F Zeen’s own organic Chef’s Garden, producing modern Greek dishes with a creative twist, as well as international fare. Dishes include sea bass ceviche, Greek meatballs (keftedes) and vegetarian and vegan options such as roasted sweet potato with vegan yoghurt, pomegranate molasses and tahini. Some wines are sourced from Kefalonia’s Gentilini vineyard.
Canoeing, snorkelling, kayaking and standup paddle boarding in the crystal clear waters which are home to Caretta-caretta loggerhead sea turtles.
Guided morning hikes take you through olive groves, sheep herds, church ruins and paths lined with pine trees that wind down towards Lourdas beach where the hills of Zakynthos island rise from the horizon. For more challenging excursions, experienced instructors can guide hikers to the top of Mount Ainos.
Where do you stay?
There are 61 rooms and two villas to choose from. Rooms are arranged on the slopes between winding paths, each with unobstructed sea views (the best vistas are from the Superior rooms on the higher slopes; Superior Raw Retreat rooms have private plunge pools and rainfall showers). Each comes in sandy hues and calming, neutral colours, with a mix of natural weathered stone and handcrafted marble and copper finishes. You can book classes, activities and spa treatments on an iPad, which is also loaded with restaurant menus to whet your appetite for dinner.
The villas each have three bedrooms, a private pool, roof terrace and garden with an outdoor dining area, yoga deck, a kitchen, barbecue and pizza oven.
Accessibility
Not suitable for guests with mobility issues. Its hillside location means there are steep slopes and uneven paving.
Eco effort
They ensure drinkable tap water, and towels are washed on request only. Their gardens, which supply the kitchen, grow around 98 different species of plants and herbs and are devised to minimise any disturbance to the surrounding environment.
Anything else to mention?
There’s an outdoor cinema where guests can watch feel-good movies under the stars after dinner. Golf fiends can practise their swing in the state-of-the-art Foresight Golf Simulator.
Final word
Lovers of nature and the outdoors will gravitate towards the activities, while the spa treatments and pools are perfect for those wanting a more sedate experience.
